I've never had store bought seitan, which I think is a good thing. I'd be trying to find that elusive recipe that makes it just right.
It's kind of bouncy, and has a nice mouth-feel. Not too dense. I make the "beefy" version of Kreeli's seitan. I coat it and fry it up for sweet & sour. I serve the steaks whole for steak w/gravy, taters, & biscuits. I used it in an awesome stroganoff recipe last week. It's not hard to chew like meat, but it has a good substantial texture to it.
In other praise of Kreeli's recipe, it makes 18-24 steaks. Three steaks serves my family if I make 18 out of it. That's six meals for about an hour of work in the kitchen.